Korean lamination with InLei® Lash Filler 25.9 products: complete step-by-step protocol

Korean lash lift is a technique that differs from the classic lash lift in the way the lashes are processed and positioned. The good news is that you do not need to buy a new product line: we have been testing the compatibility of InLei® products with this technique for over a year and are achieving excellent results on all hair types.

Before you start, we recommend reading our article on the differences between cysteamine and ammonium thioglycolate in Korean lamination, in which we explain why both active ingredients can be used successfully.

Below you will find the complete 10-step work protocol.

1. PREPARE THE LASHES

Thoroughly clean the lashes with InLei® Saline Pre-treatment and secure the lower lashes with a special silicone patch such as InLei® Black Pad. It is essential to use a silicone pad (and not disposable patches) to protect the skin, so that the solutions used do not come into contact with the skin.

2. APPLY THE LASH PERMANENT

For this step of Korean lamination, two methods are available:

METHOD 1

• Apply InLei® Lash Form 1 by gently pressing the lashes onto the patch, ensuring that the surface is evenly covered and remains 1 mm away from the eyelid.
• For coarser and curlier hair, 10-20% InLei® S-Powder can be added.

Note: When the lashes are placed upwards on the shield, the hair is exposed to a pulling force, making it more likely to absorb. By contrast, when the lashes are placed on a lower eye patch, they are in their natural position and absorb more slowly. In this case, the processing time may be 10-20 minutes.

METHOD 2

Apply InLei® Lash Form 1, mixed with 10-20% InLei® S-Powder, and pull the lashes back onto an intermediate shield or silicone patch such as the InLei® Black Pad.

3. REMOVE THE PRODUCT FROM THE TIPS

Remove the product within a maximum of 5 minutes after application (depending on the hair structure) using a small brush from the tips. Then wipe the entire tip area with an InLei® Softies moistened with InLei® saline pre-treatment. See the detailed explanation about tips at the end of the article.

4. CHECK THE READINESS OF THE LASHES

Check the condition of the hair using a microbrush: if it is pliable/flexible, you can remove the product with a dry brush or cotton swab.

Note: Unlike the classic technique where we usually set a timer, in Korean lamination a stopwatch is started and the condition of the hair is checked from time to time. It is important to stop the process at the right time to achieve an optimal result: the lashes must be flexible, but not completely without structure.

5. PREPARE THE POWDER MIX + SECOND STEP

Mix 30% InLei® S-Powder thickening powder with 70% InLei® Lash Fix 2 fixation. The preparation must be smooth and lump-free, not powdery.

6. PLACE THE SHIELDS ON THE EYELID

• Place the shield on the eyelid and keep 1 mm away from the root.
• Spread the lashes directly on the shield with the prepared mixture. At this point in the work, the lashes must be very flexible and spread easily. The most suitable tools are the InLei® Helper comb, the InLei® Tiziano brush and some microfibre tips such as InLei® Softies. It is important to use them with the utmost care, because the hair is very fragile at this stage.
• Place the InLei® Lash Stopper and let it set for half the time of the first solution.

Note: When you place the lashes on the shield, make sure there is enough product, otherwise the lashes will stick together thanks to the gel effect of the powder, but the curl-fixing function will not be activated. If necessary, add more InLei® Lash Fix 2 (with or without powder).

⮕ From this point on, you continue as in the classic Lash Filler 25.9 protocol

7. PREPARE THE TINT

Mix the desired color with the InLei® Developer Cream 1.5% 5 vol. oxidant in a ratio of 1:1 until a creamy consistency is obtained. Apply from the root to the tips with a brush such as InLei® Vincent. Let it set for 6 to 12 minutes, depending on the hair structure, and remove it with a brush or cotton swab.

8. APPLY NUTRITION

Apply InLei® Lash Filler 3 with quick movements using a flat brush such as InLei® Picasso and wait a few minutes until it is completely absorbed.

9. PERFORM THE FINAL CLEANING

Fill the InLei® Barolo cup with water and pour a pump of InLei® Mousse Magica professional shampoo into a small bowl such as InLei® Solo. Wet the InLei® Fernando brush and use it to scoop out a small amount of mousse. Carefully clean all residues until the shield is removed.

Note: To achieve the correct consistency of the mousse, it is recommended to shake the bottle and turn it upside down while dispensing.

10. APPLY THE FINISHING PRODUCT

Apply the InLei® Lash Molecular 4 molecular reconstruction to all lashes with an InLei® F-brush microbrush and comb until it is completely absorbed. Rinsing is not necessary.

And that's it! Guaranteed screaming result. Don't forget a before and after photo to post on Instagram and show the whole public the magic! Tag @inlei_netherlands to show us the beauty you create.

Korean lamination with InLei®: how to manage tips and roots

For many, this will be a sensitive point, but even here, just like with the classic technique, it is essential to pay attention to the ends of the lashes so as not to jeopardize the work.

Roots

Korean lash lamination should NEVER come into contact with the skin. Whether a product based on cysteamine or ammonium thioglycolate is used, these are highly alkaline solutions. Always leave at least 1 mm distance, because these components can irritate the skin: touching them or working too close to the skin increases the risk of irritation or allergic reactions exponentially. This is an absolutely essential precaution to protect the lashes and the client's eye health.

Tips

Have you ever heard of the "tips rule"? We also use it in the classic technique and avoid applying the product directly to the tips of the lashes. With the Lash Filler 25.9 treatment, we usually extend the product that is already present in the last 3-4 minutes after application, so that it reaches the ends in a safe and controlled way.

During the work with the Korean technique, we must apply the product directly over the entire length of the hair (because the lashes spread over the patches or shields, it is almost impossible to exclude them from the beginning), so we proceed as follows: after 1-4 minutes of processing time, we remove the product from the tips with InLei® saline pre-treatment. This intervention does not interrupt the process, it only slows it down. Because it is a particularly sensitive area, it is a necessary step to prevent burning.

Now you have all the information and tips necessary to perform this treatment well. Experimenting is the key to improvement!

Is Korean lamination faster than classic?

Every novelty requires an experimental phase: it is necessary to test, observe, and repeat until an experience is developed that fully and consciously manages it. Until you have acquired full manual skills, internalized the steps of the technique, and fully understand how it works, it is completely normal that a Korean lamination may take longer than a classic treatment. Once you have mastered every step, however, the situation can be reversed: you can perform a Korean lash lamination in much less time than with a traditional lash filler.

Where is the difference? The only truly distinctive step between the two techniques is the phase of applying the lashes on the shield. If you are already an experienced professional and have quick and precise dexterity in the positioning of the lashes, you will not notice significant variations in the execution times. On the other hand, if you are a beginner or spend a lot of time applying your lashes with the classic technique, the greater ease of application that the Korean technique promises can translate into concrete time savings.

The average time of a Korean lamination remains in line with the standard: from 50 to 90 minutes, varying depending on the structure of the lashes and the complexity of the eye to be treated.

Korean lamination and film: why avoid

The use of the film during Korean lash lamination is a particularly controversial topic. For laminating with InLei® products®, it is not recommended.

Our solutions are formulated to guarantee maximum stability, so that you can achieve reliable results within well-defined standard timeframes, which can be calculated based on the characteristics of the hair, such as porosity, elasticity, and thickness. Intervening to speed up the process would mean that you lose control over the speed of the breaking of the sulfide bonds, with the real risk that the structure of the strokes is compromised within a few minutes.

Another reason why we recommend avoiding the foil is a technical precaution: in addition to causing a greenhouse effect, the film pushes the product towards the root, increasing the risk of contact with the skin — a condition that, as already emphasized, must be absolutely avoided.

Start experimenting now!